How to Make Nesselrode Pudding: A Step-by-Step Guide
This holiday, frozen chestnut-based dessert frequently attributed to the renowned nineteenth-century culinary master Antonin Carême, who acknowledged that this opulent creation was that of Monsieur Mony, cook to a Russian diplomat Count Nesselrode. It was served with hot, boozy custard, but it's sufficient by itself. It makes an excellent Yuletide centrepiece.
Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6
125g currants, or raisins or even sultanas
50g good-quality candied citrus peel, diced small
75ml maraschino liqueur, or other sweet liqueur you like (as noted later)
1 vanilla pod, split, or alternatively 1 tsp vanilla essence
600ml double cream
4 egg yolks
50g superfine sugar
45g almond flakes
125g pre-cooked peeled chestnuts, or chestnut paste
1 About the Fruit
Put the fruit and candied peel into a mixing bowl. The historic formula is reported to have contained currants along with raisins (although other vine fruit, or any other diced dried fruit you like, can be used), plus candied citron, the rind from a specific type of citrus. This is sold online, just like other candied citrus peels that are superior than those chewy, greasy nubs found in supermarkets.
2 Regarding the Spirit
Mix in the liqueur: maraschino liqueur, an Italian cherry spirit, is the traditional selection, though alternate versions use an orange triple sec, cognac and noyau, an almond-flavoured spirit derived from apricot stones, or a blend of maraschino and dark rum. Madeira, sherry, port wine, and so on, are certainly fine, as well. Steep the dried fruit mixture for a couple of hours, or for the night.
3 Infuse the Cream
An hour or so prior to starting, slit the vanilla pod down its length and use a knife's edge to scrape out the vanilla caviar. Place these seeds along with the scraped pod to a small pan along with the cream, heat gently to the point of a simmer, and then remove from the stove and leave to steep. (If using extract, mix in then proceed with immediately.)
4 Combine the Sugar and Egg Yolks
Put the egg yolks into a bowl that can withstand heat by the cooker (reserve and freeze the whites for making drinks or meringues). Slowly heat again the vanilla cream back up to a gentle simmer. In the meantime, whisk the caster sugar with the yolks (if you have a preference for sweeter desserts, you may wish to increase the amount of caster sugar to 75g).
5 Incorporate the Hot Cream
Remove the vanilla bean pod out of the hot cream, then gradually whisk the simmering liquid into the bowl with the beaten yolks. Pour back into the pot, put it upon a medium-low flame and heat, mixing continuously, till the custard reaches a coating consistency that a visible trail remains on it on the underside of the spoon. Place the saucepan into a basin filled with cold water for cooling.
6 Blitz the Chestnuts
Meanwhile, brown the flaked almonds in a dry frying pan until golden. In the case of whole cooked chestnuts, whizz them using a food processor, or grind into a fine powder in a mortar.
Drain the fruit, pour the reserved soaking alcohol into the blitzed chestnuts and blend again till uniform paste (should the mixture be too thick, add a bit of the egg mixture to achieve the right consistency). When using pre-made chestnut puree, gently fold into it the spirit.
7 Make the Frozen Base
Transfer the boozy chestnut paste into a sizeable mixing bowl, then slowly incorporate into it the chilled custard until well combined. Churn using an ice cream machine until quite thick consistency. Alternatively, transfer to a robust freezer-proof box, cover and chill for an hour, then use an electric whisk or a spoon to beat. Repeat roughly every 30 minutes till creamy and partially frozen.
8 Gently Mix in the Drained Fruit and Toasted Almonds
Once the ice-cream is thick and semi-frozen, carefully stir the drained fruit and nuts into it so that they are well distributed. Line a two-pint bowl or bread tin with clingfilm and carefully transfer the pudding base into it (you may also use a well-greased fancy mould).
Press down firmly then fold over the film over the surface to cover.